Issey Miyake Fall 2025: A Play on Ambiguity
Antonio Melani Lennox Stretch Crepe Wide Leg Trouser Pant
“This season I’m trying something new and different,” said Satoshi Kondo. “As a designer, I have always been drawn to what’s ambiguous, vague — not really defined.” That can lead to new perspectives. So the starting point of this season’s Issey Miyake collection was cryptic. Kondo and the design team began with the exercise of integrating seemingly contrasting binaries, such as abstraction and concrete or a garment and a sculpture. “That’s something that you wouldn’t normally connect,” he explained. “All those pairs are the seeds for the collection to grow. By exploring the space in between all those binaries, or those pairs, the intention is to shed some light on that ambiguity and make the audience aware of what is abstract, what is concrete, and to make them rethink what a piece of garment is. Is this sculpture? Is this clothing?” It can actually be both, as the show’s opening attested. It was a performance of one-minute sculptures by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm, whom Kondo admires for his ability to atypically frame or present ordinary objects, causing them to shape-shift. People donned garments that then were worn as sculpture. You May Also Like The ordinary became extraordinary. And it was clear fashion can be fun in this collection dubbed “[N]either [N]or,” which plays not only on words but with volumes (a jacket might have oversize shoulders and a cinched waist), asymmetry (an off-kilter collar) and trompe-l’oeil (is it a shirt, or a bag?). The first two opening looks came with prints on a white background of the third look, a sculptural red, seamless dress combining different knit structures. For the final series of garments, Kondo blended wool and alpaca yarn with thermosplastic synthetic fibers that were then heat-pressed to crispy, slightly shiny effect. From this, the designer crafted colorful garments, such as the green-and-white striped short dress with a matching wafting jacket with a hood. And between those sections was a trove of bold, versatile fashions.
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